What a quasi-digital fashion week that was
Lagos Fashion week happened but the full-length footages are MIA
I waited a week, shuffling across 50% of the brands that showcased at LagosFW, talking with friends, saving looks I fancied. I'd say this year had something going for it, but I've come to the resolve: these designers will never put out full length videos of their runway shows.
I was optimistic about following the days of fashion week as I’d done in the past month with a screenshot or download of looks from designers that I’d lock a target on “to watch" or purchase. The irony that I waited post show for full length videos was a huge mess up.
Not only because I knew somewhere on the inside that it wasn’t going to happen but because they offered live versions that disappeared — an irony is me putting it lightly.
Today, I tried (once again) reflecting on this season’s collections by focusing on what was old, new, similar and what stood out for me in alignment with how I hypothesize consumers will receive them.
Take Andrea Iyamah's show, for example, wherein all 30+ looks and set design made me think of Jacquemus and not in a bad way. Iyamah makes the kind of clothing that makes you feel like she thought about you and how exactly the skin-friendly fabric would outline your figure. If there's one thing that brand is deliberate about, it's their design and presentation (and more recently, their take on social media) just like Jacquemus. I thought to myself, if you're gonna execute a mood board, you do it exactly like this.
Weizdhurm Franklin, on the other hand, didn't come to play with the avant-garde style designs. Where else can you find structural designs that are absolutely wearable? It was a thoughtful mix of structural and wearable. The collection affirms that I can put my red carpet looks in his hands and go to sleep like a baby.
Or Bridget Awosika, with the dated designs that just need a little something to move with the modern times. Unless, their appeal is to that working class woman who knows a thing or two about modern trends and style.
There was a lot to look at. I could spot was the fact that there were multiple takes in Adire/tye-dye/abstract art: shoes, bags, jewelry, clothing and other items performatively presented as truly “African”.
The plan was to talk about it with a friend and determine who we wanted in or out and also, which pieces are likely to become IT items amongst consumers. Nigerians aren't exactly designer shoppers. Sometimes, it feels like designer clothing in this side are for the celebrities, reality stars and public figures. The ones who rarely purchase, but have stylists pull here and there. Even our pull and press culture isn't even as exhaustive as it is in America for example, so even if we find the IT item for the season, who and who will wear it? And to where?
But the shows...where are they? Just last week Gucci presented Gucci Love Parade for the whole world. Fashion weeks in Milan, London, New York etc. had designers who all presented shows that were live broadcast on either Instagram, Facebook or YouTube. Or at least, uploaded the full show to same Instagram or YouTube within 24hrs of the shows.
Then here comes LagosFW. Anticipated and marketed as an event with limited in-person capacity. An event individuals waited two years for in exchange for live shows. Instead, were handed unlisted links and 2 minute clips "presenting" which had less to do with the looks on display and more about getting to know the brand about to display.
I don't think my "influencer stories and reels" digital view of the shows is satisfying enough, nor do I think the quality of designer presentations sit well in this age of technology, but I'm stunned by the effort, so A. It's proof that with the said culture of Nigerians, when they promise you something, you take that with a pinch of salt.
The next digital fashion week, I'd keep a more open mind because I see these hosts tend to hold themselves up to standards they can't afford to meet. Not at this time.
You can’t make this thing up. Give me the shows. This isn’t how I expected a 10 year achievement to go.
